Fan does not work
Yes, disconnect the power sheet of the electric fan and with 2 wires connect the negative and then the positive of the battery ...... if it starts it is a relay
Hello pablito..thanks for everything..probe direct but without the tab..because it seemed that he was not walking..peel the two wires from the fan and connect the two wires to the battery and the fan started working.
For me, what is a relay? Can I connect some crocodile clips temporarily and walk the car like this?
Great! You saved yourself from buying the most expensive .... look at the car world if it tells you what the relay is and if the fuse is not cut off the fuse ..... as a power, you can but it is not recommended for Nothing because the electric fan starts at a time when the car is hot powered by a bulb ..... take it to an electrician because you're going to break more expensive things! regards
Note: I'm tired of asking for solutions to your problems without giving the basic engine data, in your case it could be a Spanish Fiesta 9/96 1.3 with Endura E gasoline and it would be the one in the photo, or a 1.8 Endura D diesel, from Being this last, the time I took to help you will be in vain because it is totally different from the one mentioned, remember this for future consultations since it bothers a lot.
Thanks charly..ese sensor..is it normally open? I ask because it does not give continuity. Will it be that when it reaches the right temperature it closes the circuit and sends the signal? From already thank you very much
That's right, close the circuit when the temperature exceeds 97º, which, as I told you, bypassing the blue connector emulates the function of the sensor by closing the circuit, in this way you don't have to feed the electro on the other hand, if with the bridge It works change the sensor.
Hi, charly. How are you doing? I have bung the wires that go to the sensor ... but I also do not start ... I see that the wires of both the sensor and the electric fan are worth a triack ... can this be defective? And there are other things in the What can I notice?
If you can, there is always a relay for electro, that would be the second step in the test, leave the sensor bridged and disconnect the relay, you will see on the same that there are two pins marked 30 and 87, make another bridge in the connector on those two, also looking to see if there is 12v in 30 before bridging.
The relay always has a circuit printed ... if you have nothing, send us a photo or tell us what brand it is. The RELEE is a coil that, energized, alters auxiliary contacts turning NC (normal closed) into open or vice versa depending on whether it is energized or not. The contacts you mention 1.2.3.4 and 5 must have 2 that belong to the relay coil, verify continuity in the coil and if it has, energize it separately and make sure that the contacts change state.
You are probably using a NO (normal open or open) and when the relay is energized, it becomes closed
Okay. Questions ... can I power it with the same car battery? If there is no continuity between any of the pins the burned eataria coil? If there is continuity and when it is engendered, it gives continuity to other pins ... the latter would be the ones that would go to the electric fan? Thank you very much for your pablito time
Good ... half if they had continuity ... and the beep does it with the 3 and 4, where it gives a resistance of 2.5 homn. I think that is the relay coil ... but to continue measuring it gave me between 1 and 2 a resistance of 99homs. (without beep of the tester) I imagine that this must be due to the high resistance .. the question is that at 3 and 4 I energized it with 12 volts of the battery .. but the cables overheated starting to smoke and I had to leave.
Already silhouetted pablito ... thank you very much..puebtie the relay and the sensor..and I barely made contact with the electro
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