Auto battery indicates green but is discharged
Hello, between what points did you measure the first cell? Should it be between the output terminal of the first cell and the entry point of the second cell, and so on, or, with a specially designed tester, the resistance of each cell is measured with the same criteria, that would indicate if one is short, or, it has interrupted some internal connection bridge, luck
Yes, I did it as you are indicating. I also did it by putting the tip of the multimeter through one of the battery terminals and the other end in each of the cells and as I mentioned, the first cell already gave me a bad reading. And it's just a cell.
No friend, it is not short, if it were short it would only mark 10/11 volts, it is interrupted. with a voltage of 10/11 volts the car would treat or ignite but the other plates in the battery would bend
Well, I wanted to see if I could do something that could help me with this, is that here in my country many of those places where they call themselves a battery workshop, the first thing they will tell me is that they are already dead, and they will want to sell me a new one with an exchange of this, just for that reason I posted the query, to avoid being teased.
Something similar happened to me with a battery that had a scarce year and I regret to tell you that you can take it for granted because what has happened is that one of the cells has degraded.
What I did with mine was to cut the plastic from the bad cell and bypass it to have it in my workshop to use it with a battery drill that broke the battery cartridge and also serves to use with an emergency light in case of blackout .
Thanks I think everything points to that, I just wanted to be sure of that as I said before, I don't want to be teased.
Another thing, what would be the cause of the cell being damaged? I say to mention a few.
The reason may be the defective battery cell, lack of water to the required level or overload because of the alternator that is not regulating the charge well and sends more and that can cause the weaker bridge to open, the water will evaporate and do not pass the amperage to start the car even if the voltage does not drop, it will remain between 12/13 volts. That's why I marked you voltage but didn't start the car
friend if you think the battery is fine, then if the boot when you connect it to the battery just clicks, then try it directly without the automatic. If the starter turns and ejects the bendy hard then it is the automatic that is not making good contact and does not give power and does not turn the harness or is deficient. fix the automatic starter and to avoid that next time send another external automatic to help the arra
That is the issue, when I tried it out of the battery, it seemed to me that I did not have enough strength to start, what catches my attention as I said before is that insisting that it suddenly seems that in some way or battery or the mechanism were going to work well and I was running, I already ruled out that it is the mechanism of the key because with the multimeter the bridge makes me well, I think that in the end I will have to lean over the battery but with doubts, since I put it one borrowed and does the same to me unless they have the same problem (batteries).
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