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Automotive electricity

Intermittent pulls corolla 95 injectors?

Jcrobles
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hello everyone, my problem is that almost a year ago my car (Corolla 95 automatic 7AFE engine) started with very soft first pulls, they did not show up continuously, however currently it is continuous, very annoying and occurs when I drive forward, no in idle and parking. I have tested changing ECU, TPS sensor, MAP, cleaning injectors and even changed the fuel pump and regulator. All this has been because the mechanics in my area do not find the fault or simply do not want to grab the car for diagnosis because they do not want to complicate. lately I did a test and bought an oscilloscope, the first thing I identified was that the alternator was failing since it gave an average of 14.2 v of charge, however it had voltage peaks of up to 18 v, I originally thought that this was the problem that my auto, however the pulls continue, change the voltage regulator and the alternator portadiode, if this voltage tests were made which is already constant (average 14.2) and the amperage was measured by oscilloscope with the car stopped and running, I it gives amperage between 5 and 13 amperes, however eventually an amperage peak of up to 80 v appears, very sudden and uncommon (I will put picture). later I went on to evaluate the CKP sensor which goes great the oscillogram (I will put photo), I went to the injectors, I have video and photos of the behavior of each injector, it has the typical form but I have compared with some videos and a little theory and the shape of the waves of the injectors is very straight, it does not have the typical form of closing of the coil or it seems that it does it of delayed form. It is in this situation that I would like your help, since the 4 injectors have this shape and according to what I have read, it means that the injectors are not closing properly, what makes me strange is that they are 4, my doubt is if I could be a problem of the injectors (damaged by the high voltage delivered by the alternator when it failed) or if it is a problem of the ECU that is sending the ground signal erroneously. Simultaneous voltage and amperage test on the injector is missing. Files: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qp5mnqnedn2cuxo/AABWkC0QEz7-Y5k7VZDMcr-Ra?dl=0
todito
todito
581
hace 6 años

hello, the tension and the pulses are handled by the computer, if you say that stopped does not fail, it can be something that fails when the car moves, try with the car stopped to accelerate and move the wires and connections, if they are the spark plug wires It is very difficult to find the fault, so they are replaced,

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Jcrobles
hace 6 años

Yes, it only fails in motion, when it is acceleration at high revolutions, in slow motion it does not fail, I will try to test with oscilloscope in motion to check injection, secondary and crankshaft position sensor

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todito
todito
581
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hi Jcrobles, I'm not a mechanic, but, I had some problems with the cars, so I read, you got angry with the alternator, which has nothing to do with the performance of the engine, if it works badly, you will burn the battery or another problem, If the naphtero car pulls, they are two things or fuel or spark or air, if you already checked the injectors, you checked that they are not covered that do not drip. (there are workshops that have a device that tests the injection) you take the injectors and they test them give you pulses and it looks like injected. You checked the ramp pressure. and the other is to check the "coil" or coils, cables, connectors, and spark plugs, it may be that the temperature is short, I had a renault megane that had one coil per cylinder, and in the cold it was perfect for CNG, in half an hour a coil was short, the explorations, and the tugs shook you from the armchair,
Jcrobles
hace 6 años

Hello, yes, you are right, the alternator was making me drop battery liquid, however I put a voltage meter and when giving peaks of 17-18 v the engine failed and the lights increased their intensity. The fuel pressure is correct, it is 28 psi at idle speed and at maximum acceleration the pressure does not drop during 38 pulls. Air system is clean including acceleration body. My car is a coil, I replaced it together with wires and spark plugs a month ago, I would have to see if the wires are no good. Injectors if they inject, but doubt is about coil remains open.

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Jcrobles
hace 6 años

The fault was a small sensor that is inside the distributor, it is a sensor that indicates the position of the camshaft apparently, it was poorly calibrated, the "gap" was too closed which caused the sensor to send signal unstably. Thank you all for your comments.

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armdob
armdob
12
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Good afternoon, friend I rule out a fault in the ignition, coil, spark plug wires and spark plugs ...
Jcrobles
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hi, sorry for the delay, I kept track of the amperage peaks that the alternator gave, I checked the 3 wires that reach the alternator voltage regulator, L, S and IG, I found one of the "IG" wires checking the diagram electric says it only receives battery voltage when you open the switch, however the cable brings ground when the switch is not open, something you should not have, the test lamp turns on slightly, which indicates that the earth is weak but is present . I followed the wiring to the first connector and to the fuse box where it leads to a "relay integration" when disconnecting these connectors the earth is lost, in the same way I was following the power of the same and at this moment I detected that there is a relay called " power main relay "that when disconnecting it also loses the ground the" IG "cable of the alternator, I guess this comes from further back, at this moment I am at this point I hope to move forward tomorrow to identify why this cable has ground, maybe more wires that they are receiving land and this is causing the failure

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