Hi. What number is the tv chassis. and at what stage have you checked to try to fix the fault
Measure the tensions of each cathode when turning on the TV and do not remove the tester from there to see if it stays on.
see if the filament is still on so you don't see an image. The + b may be high on the scrin lines when turning on the TV.
Look scrin. If it is not properly adjusted it takes time to turn on.
Hopefully it is not a defective tube.
Regards, the chassis number is AA41-01319B, these are the voltages on the display card, BK = 117V, GK = 158V, RK = 42V, the voltage in SC (SCREEN) = 302V, 188V (VIDEO FLYBACK)
According to his comment, he has a problem with the red cathode since the tension is very low. It should be almost the same as the others. Control everything in that circuit.
You can remove the plate from the tube and measure the KR again. If it is restored it is the bad tube.
Indeed friend tartaglia, remove the card from the screen cannon and perform the measurements again and all voltages were approximately 145 volts, including the red cathode ... So the screen would be bad? If so, is there any way to reduce the time in which the image appears?
ok thanks for the contribution, I do not have another screen to discard or the TV remote control to enter the service mode, I asked for the adaptation because I saw a video where they adapted 3 resistors to the cathodes to deceive the protection of the ik circuit but I do not know If this is a similar case ... in this case when the image comes out and the TV turns off and turns on immediately it takes about 10 seconds to reappear the image after 5 flashes of the LED, but as the TV is more time off or disconnected from the network the time the video goes out can reach up to 3 min.
I think it is of no use to cancel the IK if you have a bad tube as in this case.
What you can try is to see if reactivating the tube is short. Or maybe unlinked the 2 filament pins and feed them from the flyback core or external source, achieve something.
Get out of any doubt by desoldering well the 3 cathodes that do not give in print. Press the TV and you don't have to give any color on the screen.
ok, I ask some questions about what you are commenting ... When the video comes out you see some wear on the screen, a little opaque and highlights the red color in the images, I understand that the reactivation of the tube resolves for a short time the failure or accelerates the total destruction of the screen, correct me if I am wrong, I would like to know how to do the reactivation ... now well because unlink 2 filament pins and not 1? and about leaving doubts desoldando the 3 cathodes, if it does not give any color in the image or if on the contrary I have some color, what is the conclusion?
Hi. sorry for the interrogation but to get out of doubt edgarrodriguez, try another screen there you can see if the screen is sold out or not
Hi. If the image looks as you describe it is the tube. Reactivation is not safe as you say. No one can assure the result. It is a matter of luck.
If you unlink both pins from the filament. NOT one only. Okay. In my contribution I will upload a reactivator - another test so you know and how to feed the flyback core filament
Sludos colleagues thank you for all your contributions, I got another tube and the image came out quickly with good color, good brightness, I turned it off at night and turned it on the next day and it came out well porn what effectively is the screen that is exhausted, now well the The client does not want to invest in a new screen, so as an option, just calibrate the screen from the service mode and improve the response time of the video a bit, therefore I will close the post ... for future similar failures the solution is to change the tube . Greetings from Venezuela
When I entered the mode, did I play so that the red method improves and the TV takes less time to give an image?