Dear colleagues I have this smart TV, which turns on stand by, and when I want to turn it on it responds when it wants to. After switching on it works for a few minutes, and turns off with a stand-by LED on. Wanting to turn it on does not. Disconnect from the network, and then turn on when you want and so repeat the cycle. The choper also produces a noise as a high voltage leak. This is the one that gives the 12 Volt, since that of the 3.3 volt makes it another very small one. I have replaced all filters. Revised welds. The 12 volts that are the only output are presented when you turn on clear. Sometimes when it turns off than flashing the stand-by LED three times and repeat the cycle. The 3, 3 volts present. Nor does power appear in the connector that goes to the main to bridge the 3.3 volt with power and see how it works, there is a pin that says "POK" apart from the others that do not seem to be power or similar. An orientation please. Thank you for your help!

Hello, this diagram is difficult, as far as I know the philips have no diagnoses by blinks such as sony, sharp or panasonic, looking in the research I found that your TV uses this chassis https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/tv/philips-esquemas-tv/philips-32pfl5007g-78-chassis-l12.m1.1l-la-23658/ see if it's the same main and if your source is there, but I uploaded the source code The task we have is to determine if it is the power source or the main one that turns off the TV or does not let it start Observe and memorize when the voltage is on led + with respect to mass The source that turns on the LEDs is a constant current, it raises the voltage until the expected current circulates, if no current circulates through the LED strip the voltage is triggered, the ovp acts, it can be an open led Understanding this remember that there was tension in the LED connector when they turned on and compare it when it just turned off alone the mains philips have many dc / dc sources integrated in the main, they know how to be all together in one or two pages of the service manual, they usually fail, it may not turn on or this erratic and turn it off ... always some patch is you can do them: wink: summarizing I leave you the test of the LED connector and I ask you, when you do not want to start, is the standby LED on? if you can take a picture of the POK source connector, it sounds like Power OK

The connectors that feed the LEDs are two, the source is not the same ... We will say that similar. This is 55 ". The strange thing is the noise of the chopper as voltage leaks, This chopper is responsible for the 12 volt. Board code: PCB 3PAGC10095A-R

some sources are noisy, I don't think it's our problem for now, you didn't upload the source code, the main one is the same? I leave you a video to review how LED technology works, how the voltage rises with a dc / dc, how it detects the current and how it handles brightness in simplified diagrams also what happens when the circuit is open https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWhp-2l4auQ&t=63s don't forget the data

Board code: PCB 3PAGC10095A-R He had passed it to you. On the other hand I assure you that this noise is like high voltage losses, serious Flybacks with very ugly variations, When you do that the TV turns off. I think it is to take into account

I have been told to bridge with 1K resistance between 3.3 volt and power. But there is no pin identified as power only 3.3 vol; Stan-by, and voltages 12 volt, and one that says "POK"

I found a component that measured in cold mark for both sides 17 ohms, is a diode. It is in a heatsink next to two mosfet, mdf11n60. The diode in question is BYV29X-600. The location on the board is D602 How did I turn on the TV if it was short ?????? : shock:

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/lcd/3pagc10095a-r-pldk-p107b-philips-psu-37382/

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/lcd/3pagc10095a-r-pldk-p107b-philips-psu-37382/

This is the short diode. I need replacement Datasheet http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/345874/NXP/BYV29X-600.html

Now it seems to work, that diode is that of the pfc source. its objective, together with q601 and 2 and l601 is to raise the voltage to 400 volts in the main filter when the source is on

OK, okay, and you explain how I turned on the TV with that short diode? And it went off when the chopper made noise. It's weird, isn't it? And look for the BYV29X-600 datasheet that would need replacement .... http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/345874/NXP/BYV29X-600.html

[quote="TecnoHogar"] OK, okay and you explain how I turned on the TV with that short diode? And it went off when the chopper made noise. It's weird, isn't it? [/Quote] if the pfc is not running, some TVs turn on with 220 volts because you have 315 left in the filter but the line voltage drops a bit and they do not go, if you connect it in 110 volts they do not start, since the source tenta 110 volts high the 220volts to 400 volts of PFC, do you understand? You're from Argentina, here I have an LG plate with one like yours and it's good: D if you're from Argentina I send it to you by mail: wink:

Yes I understand, but when I gave the image, or the LEDs lit, the voltage was 394 Volt. measured between the ends of the 82 uf x 450 capacitors

Here I have an LG plate with one like yours and it's good: D if you're from Argentina I send it to you by mail: Wink:

I am from Argentina, Florencio Varela; and where are you from?

I'm from Mardel Look what I found, how many replacements you want! Hahaha http://uk.farnell.com/c/semiconductors-discretes/diodes/fast-ultrafast-recovery-rectifier-diodes-600v-or-gt?repetitive-reverse-voltage-vrrm-max=600v&forward-current -if-av- = 8a

Hahahaha, but the one I have to place is 9 amps

[quote="TecnoHogar"] Hahahaha, but the one I have to place is 9 amperes [/quote] is the filter of the page change it, I put 8 amps of 9 there are few http://uk.farnell.com/c/semiconductors-discretes/diodes/fast-ultrafast-recovery-rectifier-diodes-600v-or-gt?repetitive-reverse-voltage-vrrm-max=600v&forward-current -if-av- = 9a of 10 there are more http://uk.farnell.com/c/semiconductors-discretes/diodes/fast-ultrafast-recovery-rectifier-diodes-600v-or-gt?repetitive-reverse-voltage-vrrm-max=600v&forward-current -if-av- = 10a I already treasure this page in favorites, hehe: wink:

good evening colleagues !!! I have the same problem with a smart philips model 42pfl8606 ... sometimes it works a few hours! then it goes out .... it is heard as a protected source (noise like false contact or loss of discharge ...) then it flashes 3 times it is led ... solve everything ... change capacitor c509 and I am about to change diode byv29x (he clarified this works well) the strange thing is that sometimes the TV turns on hours and sometimes minutes ... I suspect a lot of chooper traffic ... apparently the noise comes out of there ... Hopefully they can contribute something

Hi Martin, I opened a new question and I assist you, invite me this way