Hello david! Thanks for answering. What I did to take the reading is this. I welded a valve to the discharge. Suction leave it free. The high pressure gauge connect it to the valve. I turned on the compressor and after 7 seconds I had a pressure of 500 psi. I turned it off and let it sit for about 5 minutes and it had dropped to 450. I decompressed up to 200 psi and turned it on again. I immediately reached 500 psi.
And regarding taking reading of the valves or flappers, how should I do it?
Nooo forget that compressor is perfect. The test of the valves is how you did leaving it for 5 minutes and see that it does not lose compression. It is very rare that all I can think of is a lack of refrigerant or maybe a lot of refrigerant. You controlled the capillary if it is the same diameter and length or you put the original again because sometimes they sell you the perfect length but any diameter. Here I have the compressor specification on another page and it gives me the consumption data at 1.66 amp for -23 ° C and a condensation of 54 ° C could be a lot of gas or a lot of capillary or you have been given a
smaller diameter and is producing overheating. Based on that it considers an obstruction in some welding of the high side produced by a lot of material of contribution, peeeroooo here come the doubts and the contradictions since you have a pressure of 20psi that does not lower. The condenser the passage of air through it is clean? And has the ventilator sucking air through it and then to the compressor? or is it sucking air from the compressor to the condenser ??? else cool before the condenser forzer burns?
Because you don't do this: try to connect the compressor with a separate cable and that it works directly just make sure that you turn on both internal and external fans, check that everything I told you about the external fan is fine and let it run for a while and then oma its temperature tamto in evaporator as environment
Hello David again, I was out on the weekend so I didn't answer. Lack of refrigerant I do not think it was because I made the load by weight as indicated by the label. It carries 80 grams of R290 refrigerant.
The capillary is of the same diameter and the weirdest thing of all is that with the old capillary before changing I did exactly the same. I thought it might become a tamponade but by changing it and putting on a new filter, it continues to do the same. the condenser is clean wipe it with a cloth and then throw it with compressed air and it is clean clean!
The fan is between the condenser and the motor. It is sucking air through the condenser and throws it to the motor. The client told me that if it cooled, but a week passed since I stopped cooling until I called to go check it out. This afternoon when I arrive I will try to put the engine directly and write to see what results it gave me. Let's see if we can solve this problem that drives me crazy haha. If I do another engine test, in how many seconds would I have to go up to 500 psi? I'm doubting now if I raised the 500 in 7 seconds or take a little longer
Hi inox, I'm sorry that I was there all day today until 10.30pm working outside. It is estimated that the time is 1 minute, which takes the compressor to raise pressure
How are you David. In the end I tell you what happened. Remove the compressor to test it outside again. I inflated it up to 400 psi until there everything normal. Wait about 5 min and the needle was going down but very slow. When I reached 200 psi I turned it on and made it reach up to 400 psi again, when I turned it off the pressure dropped instantly by blowing white smoke with a burning smell. So apparently the problem was the engine. Now I am waiting for the client to tell me if it changes or not. Thanks for your time !