MOIRA spinelli

51

hace 5 años

look at that duct it seems to be fine since I unplugged it and opened the bottom of the freezer and I see ice in the serpentine but suddenly water is falling through that duct to the defrosting tray. I see if I can send you a photo

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

Perfect, the photos clarify the panorama much better, that freezing is not typical of clogged drainage, there is a problem with the defrost or defrost system of your refrigerator, I presume that your refrigerator is not digital since I saw a bimetal, if so , it may be that said bimetal is open even when there is ice in the evaporator, this bimetal with that amount of ice that can be seen in the photograph should be closed so that the resistance reaches tension, if it is open, then you must replace it; the timer may also be damaged, if the timer is damaged the refrigerator

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

the respective defrosting cycle will never be carried out, it is also necessary to check that the thermal fuse is closed, this fuse is in series with one of the wires that reach the electrical resistance, if this fuse is open you must replace it, finally, It would be to check the electrical resistance, this resistance is connected live and should turn on and heat, if it does not turn on this burned and you must replace it, in case it turns on, you should realize that it warms enough to melt the ice, if it does not melt the ice being on, you must replace it since

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

It has lost power. Also make sure that the freezer inside fan works perfectly, if it doesn't work, or is slow or intermittent, it also causes that freezer to freeze.

MOIRA spinelli

51

hace 5 años

thanks, Mimol92 defrosts it and take a picture over there you see something else to indicate now I add it to the original question. It is not digital, it is a refrigerator that already has its years but it came out good. When I decide the bimetal is open how should I put it?
Thank you

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

You should try the bimetal in cold, I recommend introducing it in a freezer that freezes well, you can leave it there for 20 minutes, and after it is cold you do a continuity test, it should give you continuity (it is closed), if you do not it gives continuity between its two cables, then it is defective and you must replace it; but in the case of your refrigerator, it would have been perfect to make these measurements when you took the first photos in which the evaporator was full of ice, there with that amount of ice it would have been excellent to know if the bimetal was closed or not.

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

I explain a little how this works: your refrigerator is no frost, it means that it incorporates a system for automatic defrosting of the evaporator, this system is called the No Frost System or simply defrosting system, the timer is the brain of the refrigerator and is responsible for starting the compressor to cool the refrigerator, for a period of 6, 8 or 12 hours, after this period the timer disconnects the compressor and fans and activates the defrost system, this defrost cycle usually last 21, 30 or 50 minutes, that depends on the timer

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

During this time, the timer cuts a phase to the compressor and fans and this phase sends it to the electric heater to heat and evaporate all that ice that accumulates in the evaporator, otherwise, there will be no air circulation or Heat transfer for cooling the inside of the refrigerator, however, between the timer and the resistance there are some fundamental elements that are the thermal fuse and the bimetal, the thermal fuse must always be closed, but the bimetal only closes when it detects that there is ice in the evaporator, just close cold

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

so, while there is ice in the evaporator, the bimetal must be internally closed so that the resistance stays on melting all the missing ice, when there is no ice, this bimetal must be opened, so that the electrical resistance is turned off because there is no longer ice to melt, in this way if the defrost cycle lasts 21 minutes and the resistance managed to melt the ice in 14 minutes for example, there are 7 minutes left in which the timer will continue sending the phase to the resistance, but the resistance will be off because the bimetal is open, of what

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

On the contrary, if the resistance is on without ice in the evaporator, the heat emitted will defrost the food and the refrigerator will be hot inside and can burn, in this case the thermal fuse would act to protect the refrigerator, after the missing minutes, the timer It will stop sending the phase to the resistor and send it back to the compressor and fans to activate the cooling cycle again. In your case, the defrosting cycle is failing, some of the components mentioned may be (timer, bimetal, thermal fuse, electrical resistance)

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

it is damaged, but to verify it, it is much easier for the technician to make the diagnosis of the problem being the honeycomb full of ice as in the first photos you uploaded, there the technician would place the timer in rest mode and check with an amperometric clamp if there is consumption in the electrical resistance, in case of no consumption, the problem is in the bimetal or in the resistance, if there is consumption and defrosts the whole honeycomb, it is most likely that the timer is the one that is defective.

MOIRA spinelli

51

hace 5 años

Many thanks for all your explanation Mimol92, I will proceed to see which of all is the fault. Then I'll tell you. Thank you again.

MOIRA spinelli

51

hace 5 años

mimol92 thousand thanks was solved by changing the bimetal.

Mimol92

8.033

hace 5 años

Perfect, I'm glad you solved it, enjoy your refrigerator. We're at your service.