As the colleague says, the refrigerant may be missing or the compressor may be worn out or some problem, so I advise to take winding and relay and thermal measurements and leave it on to observe that the evaporator is full of frost and rule out possible gas loss or plugging in the refrigerant circuit capillary filter etc.
Good afternoon davidefrainrod I already made the measurements to the windings as you told me and they are fine it is not grounded or landed as we say here, the relay and thermal do not check them there if I have a little doubt on how to check if they are in optimal conditions , measured the resistance and if it marks, the fan actually works with the door open does not cut when opening it, the electronic card visually does not look burned or sulphated
To check relay and thermal only measure if they have continuity. It is rare that the fan and the open door can happen that if you just plug the refrigerator is doing self-test and does not deactivate the fan even if you open the door, I will tell you again for the exact start and stop time (35min) it is in emergency mode and you will have to check the sensors and if it has a network switch on the stand that divides up from below you will have to pass a magnet and see if it activates or deactivates the light and the fan
The red switch are hidden and are the ones that activate light and fan would be the same as the light knob but hidden since they are activated with magnetism of the weatherstrip. Again, check if the compressor is running full of frost or ice, especially the evaporator.
I believe that in 35 min you have to frost the entire evaporator, control the hair and dryer filter.
I already performed a vacuum for 30 minutes and I had it under observation for 4 hours and there was no variation, I charged refrigerant by design asking me 120 gr. I put almost 150 gr and the consumption was 3.2 Amp according to what the data sheet specifies is within the range
Connect a separate cable to the compressor, disconnect the relay and thermal cable and connect a direct one, run it longer and watch if it freezes all evaporators
When I say a separate cable to the compressor, I mean using the refrigerator but leaving thermal and relay in place what you discard with this test is to see if it freezes the entire evaporator because there are refrigerators that detect little cold, suppose as an example for lack of gas and enters in emergency.
If it can be transformed but you must evaluate costs because you will need a timerdefrost, automatic ambient temperature, bimetal, and you will have to diagram the wiring for the analog connection and see how you use the existing wiring you should look at the fan at 220 volts, you should also know if not have other problems but it won't work either