When the bimetal cools it, it must let the current pass and when it is heated with a positive temperature it must cut the current, see if there is a thermal fuse that may be failing, I do not understand why they changed so many cards without first controlling the bimetal and the entire defrosting system, if they made sure that the forcer works and that the defrosting duct that goes to the compressor motor is not covered with ice.
Thanks Gustavo.
The drain I understand that it is the drain for the thaw and is not covered, and I understand that it has no thermal fuse, it would only be necessary to check the bimetal and the forcer. In the case of bimetal I encourage you to change it since it is cheap, although the new one would be a standard. Regards
All non-frost refrigerators carry thermal fuse, but I think in this model you have them in the resistor (2) where the terminals go, but we know they work because you tested it directly and it heats.
If your refrigerator I think that if you carry the card underneath in the conservation zone, check that the ambient sensor is in the corresponding position.
Dear Yecith for more attention the next time ask your individual question and not in an existing question that gives us a greater order; Regarding your question check the resistance, fuses and thermal sensor of the refrigerator as Gustavo Gabriel recommends. This is done by means of a multimeter device set in ohms at each end of the resistor if it produces an approximate reading of its value is fine.
Good morning and thanks for commenting.
I tell him that I had not had time to check the refrigerator, but I tried the resistance again and it turns out that it did not heat all, but only a section of about 7 centimeters of the resistance, I imagine that it should heat completely, so I thought to change it and see If that is solved.