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Refrigerators
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How to change MADEMSA refrigerator thermostat Model NORDIK 415
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
4.047
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hi Ronny for what your photo shows if it has no visible or hidden screws behind a white aesthetic cover or under the lamp is unfailingly one of those that will press with some lock and you should try to open a little side to see. You can test the direct compressor with another cable to get out of doubt if it is that it works or not and if it works just there you try to disassemble the automatic. The substitute cable is placed one end in relay and the other in thermal. DO NOT KNOW relay or thermal leave them for protection. Then you also get out of doubt if the relay or thermal breaker was not damaged since it often causes the same symptom.
hace 6 años
Very dear davidefrainrod. Thank you for your valuable assistance. The voltage we have at home is 220V. (3 wires have the power cable: one green for what is included, one blue that is one of the phases of the 220 and another brown that is the other phase of the 220V as seen in the photo). I have a doubt. To perform the test that you suggest direct connection (which I have not done yet), where do I connect both the blue and the brown cable of the 3 input terminals to the compressor: To the common, to the start or to the start ?. since the green goes to physical ground of the machine or refri.
4.047
hace 6 años
Hi Ronny, you have to make or find a cable other than the refrigerator and don't complicate your life with phase and neutral. Your new cable will have the plug on one side and the cables with terminals on the other, separate the earth (forget it) and then connect a cable to the relay leg and the other to the thermal ((the same ones where the cable was connected own refrigerator)) and plug into the network. That way it is impossible to make a mistake or go crazy to know what is Work start up. If you connect Phase-thermal ....... Neutral-Relay or vice versa it works the same
hace 6 años
Thank you very much my dear friend davidefrainrod. We did as you tell us and indeed our suspicion that the thermostat was damaged are true. We measure continuity as indicated and there is no continuity measurement. It is open so tomorrow we will go to the store to find another one, because I don't know if this model is repairable or not. However, we will do the other test tomorrow that you recommend of the direct start of the machine to be sure that there is no other damage. I will let you know tomorrow when we change the thermostat and make the direct start. Thanks again.
hace 6 años
I am sorry my dear davidefrain but the question follows me with the electric scheme that you kindly provided me. Here in Chile we have 220VAC in our houses, the scheme that you indicated to me is for 120V AC, if I place as you indicate the machine can be damaged. I have really searched the internet for the live boot scheme for this case of 220V AC and interestingly it does not appear only for 120V AC. According to the photo that appears above the factory through the PTC, the 220V (brown and blue cable) arrives at the Boot and Start winding.
hace 6 años
Another query my dear. In the new photo that I just attached where the 3 terminals of the thermostat are better appreciated if there is continuity between the pin that is only to the right (where the brown wires are connected) and the other pin that is loose or not connected. But among those who are connected there is no continuity. is this normal?
4.047
hace 6 años
Hello Ronny here in Argentina we also have 220 volts and it is tested in that way Phase or line to thermal and neutral to relay and if it were the reverse it would start the same. Do not go crazy grab the thermostat and connect the brown wire with the white one and plug in the refrigerator then you would be canceling the thermostat and putting the direct current to the compressor. If it starts it is the thermostat without a doubt. I do not see in the photo the terminals you tell me about a loose terminal but I do not see it take another photo in front of the connections.
11.849
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hi Ronny, everything indicates according to what you can appreciate the image, which must first carefully remove the screen of the interior lamp that must fit under pressure and then behind, you must have the screws that fix the circular structure, with the lamp socket and temperature control
The thermostat can only be tested for continuity, with a multimeter on the diode scale or on the smaller ohm scale. With the multimeter probes placed on the terminals to connect the wires, brown and white, without the wires obviously connected to the thermostat, at room temperature the terminals should report a reading on the multimeter display with a value close to 0.00 ohm . If it does not mark anything, the thermostat would be open and would need to be replaced by a new one, with the same technical characteristics. If you want to know if the compressor can start, connect the brown and white wires that are connected to the thermostat. If the compressor and thermostat do not work that way, it has continuity, it should be checked directly to the compressor, you can first test, as recommended by colleague David, by connecting the light blue wire that comes out of the thick gray wire, of the line Main, to the relay of the compressor, if it is no longer in that place located, because in the image it can not be appreciated and the brown wire that also comes out of the gray, you would connect it directly to the thermal protection, after disconnecting the cable white, which is surely the return to the compressor, from the thermostat. If the compressor does not start either, you should do the direct test, but first you must measure the thermal protection, just as you measure the thermostat for continuity, then leave the protection connected, if it has continuity, with the same brown wire cable and disconnect the relay from the terminal of the compressor, take the blue sky cable from the relay and connect it directly to the pin or terminal on the far right of the two terminals or pins of the compressor that must be free, when you put the thermal protection in place, after having it measured by continuity as to the thermostat. Finally with everything in place, you must make a momentary bridge, until you feel that the compressor starts, between the pin or free terminal that you would have left and the terminal where you have connected the blue sky cable. If after all this the compressor still fails to respond, in that case you can also measure the pins or terminals of the compressor itself in the same way that you have done with the thermostat for continuity, all the pins between all and if one does not report on the multimeter, any reading or a value in ohm, in that case the compressor would be affected. I will upload an image to see if it can help us understand. Luck. S @ lu2 friovega63.
hace 6 años
Indeed my dear colleagues. Thank you very much for the suggestions. We have carefully removed the outer plastic cover that is seen in the photo and in fact underneath there were 2 screws that when we removed them we could remove the thermostat. What confuses us is that we have made the respective measurements or tests to both the PTC and the bimetal and do not seem to give any difficulty. The PTC shows continuity in temp. ambient. The thermal fuse gives continuity as about 4 ohms. It has no noise from something loose inside the PTC but still does not start the compressor. I send you a photo of the thermostat.
hace 6 años
Thank you very much friovega63, we already take out the thermostat. But I still don't start the machine. This type of thermostat I don't know how to try it. Any suggestions I send a photo of it.
11.849
hace 6 años
Hi Ronny, I just added a new comment to my writing, please, don't stop reading and commenting. Thanks S @ lu2.
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