Hello dear how are you doing, I did the same thing on one occasion and put a metal bi that opened its circuit at -10 degrees and the analog timer that I placed was 6hsX20min approx given that it defrosts 4 times a day and 8x 20 times a day .... Another thing check that there is no return of liquid at the outlet of the evaporator, that it has an overheating of between 4 and 5 ° C I hope I have helped you with the same problem
Good evening dear, the defrosting system I tested directly I put the timer in defrost cycle I applied liquid coolant to the bimetallic to close contacts and entered to work the resistance, and it produced good heat.
That's why I asked for the bimetallic since the original closes is an L15 that closes at - 21C and the one that it places is L47 at - 22F. And about the possible excess of gas in which I thought also made me doubt since as I told you I found the evaporator blocked of ice and the fan blades locked, when it started to turn the return pipe began to defrost
Good evening friends, if I have thought about the possible excess load, but the fridge is working at almost 1psi. And the consumption is 0.9amp. Then there seems to be no excess gas. What do you think do you think that not having put the same original bimetallic or having removed the thermal fuse could cause the problem? Or with the values that I mentioned the same I am having a liquid stroke in the return. I appreciate your comments.
Check that the timer runs its full cycle, there may be a bad connection.
If you change your hair, it may also not be appropriate. Is the resistance you have the same or did you change it?
Thermostat that cuts. And that long return smells like excess gas.
The thermal protector does not influence that it does not defrost, it is only to avoid overheating, or high voltage.