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Refrigerators

Whirlpool fridge with malfunction

cristianBautista
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Greetings dear friends, I am writing to present a problem that I am presented with a whirlpool digital nofrost fridge with Freezer above and conservative below. This refrigerator first had a clogged capillary problem which was fixed. Then the electronic card was damaged by not getting it, I decided to make it manual or analog. But a week later the client calls me and tells me that I was not cooling him and making a loud noise. When I went to check it out, it turned out that it was blocked by ice and the ice reached the compressor's return pipe. And the noise was produced by the friction of the fan blade with the excess ice, I even found it stuck in the ice and the engine forcing. It is worth mentioning that I tested the defrosting system and the bimetallic closes contacts when the temperature drops and the resistance acts, the question I have is the following. When changing the electrical system, remove the thermal fuse of the resistor that goes in series with the bimetallic and replace the bimetallic, which originally had an L15-21C. And I put an L47 - 22F. My question is whether those changes mentioned are causing me the problem? Or I check something else. I thank you for your help if you need more information let me know. Thanks and regards
Peraltalucas9667
hace 6 años

Hello dear how are you doing, I did the same thing on one occasion and put a metal bi that opened its circuit at -10 degrees and the analog timer that I placed was 6hsX20min approx given that it defrosts 4 times a day and 8x 20 times a day .... Another thing check that there is no return of liquid at the outlet of the evaporator, that it has an overheating of between 4 and 5 ° C I hope I have helped you with the same problem

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NG en linea
NG en linea
9.229
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hi. You say the defrost system works. How did you check? Which I doubt then the bimetallic that you put -22f is -39 centigrade. However test the system 1 move the evaporator so that you can see or feel the resistance 2 disconnect the fan 3 start the equipment for about 40 minutes to make ice on evaporator 4 put amperometric clamp on the line 5 Turn off the compressor and set the timer to defrost 6 Here the clamp has to give you consumption, it can be 0.4 to 0.8 7 see if he turned on the resistance. If you do not see it, try feeling your surroundings to see if you feel hot, if it does not give you heat or consumption, the defrosting system is not working Before putting it on, put a thermal fuse That symptom seems more excess gas making return. Check the working pressure Also check if the compressor is stopping by thermostat.
cristianBautista
hace 6 años

Good evening dear, the defrosting system I tested directly I put the timer in defrost cycle I applied liquid coolant to the bimetallic to close contacts and entered to work the resistance, and it produced good heat.
That's why I asked for the bimetallic since the original closes is an L15 that closes at - 21C and the one that it places is L47 at - 22F. And about the possible excess of gas in which I thought also made me doubt since as I told you I found the evaporator blocked of ice and the fan blades locked, when it started to turn the return pipe began to defrost

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NG en linea
NG en linea
9.229
hace 6 años

Do the tests I told you

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ROICE GARCIA
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Good evening, buddy. If the ice problem reaches the compressor return line, it is a symptom of an excess of refrigerant in the system since if the load is correct, no matter how much the defrosting system fails, ice should not be produced in said pipe. Check well before the return of liquid gas will damage the compressor. Share your experience solving this fault. BLESSINGS.
cristianBautista
hace 6 años

Good evening friends, if I have thought about the possible excess load, but the fridge is working at almost 1psi. And the consumption is 0.9amp. Then there seems to be no excess gas. What do you think do you think that not having put the same original bimetallic or having removed the thermal fuse could cause the problem? Or with the values that I mentioned the same I am having a liquid stroke in the return. I appreciate your comments.

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NG en linea
NG en linea
9.229
hace 6 años

Check that the timer runs its full cycle, there may be a bad connection.
If you change your hair, it may also not be appropriate. Is the resistance you have the same or did you change it?
Thermostat that cuts. And that long return smells like excess gas.
The thermal protector does not influence that it does not defrost, it is only to avoid overheating, or high voltage.

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