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Refrigerators

Measure resistance glass and cooling spring no frost

MultiTec Lanza
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hello dear, I have a doubt when I measure a resistance of those that are made of glass and spring inside, should it give me continuity / beep in the tester? It only gives me 0.92 the case that I change the timer, bimetallic, thermal fuse only the resistance does not change it since when removing the bimetallic and bridging the wires of the fridge heats the resistance, turned off the clear motor and its condenser fan the amperage I get bridged 0.08 amps with the bimetallic 0.04 to 0.05 amps turn on and I could not continue testing since they closed and until Monday they return and I still do but with that of the resistance the refrigerator is an LG of the gray have never welded a gas loading center anyway I carry a valve mount in case it is not the resistance I expect from your help TEACHERS ...
friovega63
friovega63
11.849
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Hi MultiTec, what it calls spring, is the true defrosting resistance, the glass is only a cover to better radiate the heat of the same and at the same time it serves as protection. When a defrost resistance is measured, depending on how large, or small, it will have greater or lesser value in ohm, and this would simply suffice, to know that it is in good condition. If damaged, it would mark an infinite value on the multimeter, which would indicate open and without continuity. In my experience, I have never measured a resistance, which activates the multimeter beep and I think that if I did, for safety, I would only use it as a cooking hob. I would never use it in a refrigerator, because it may be transformed into a microwave or something. On the other hand the bimetal at room temperature can never have continuity, usually these are activated at a temperature below 0 degrees Celsius and when defrosting, they should withstand a minimum of 15 minutes activated until they reach the opening temperature, which should be between +11 and +13 degrees Celsius, to allow the resistance a correct defrosting, bone that after the compressor works for about 5 hours, if we perform a forced defrosting of the equipment as a test, the minimum time , active for the resistance and the bimetal repeat would be about 15 minutes, to check this time, an ammeter clamp must be used, in one of the main power input cables of the equipment, to know for it consumption that registers the clamp in amps, when the resistance stops working, when opening the bimetal, it passes current to it, and disappears the consumption before reflected in the ammeter tro. If those 15 minutes minimum are not exceeded, you should replace that bimetal with a new one with similar technical characteristics. Luck. S @ lu2 friovega63.
MultiTec Lanza
hace 6 años

Thanks for trying to help me, I never said that I tried the bimetallic at room temperature to activate it with ice in a glass of water and there it gave me continuity, what I said was to remove the bimetallic and bridge the cables where it goes, and to test the resistance and in the amperage I gave as reading 0.08 with the Bimetallic ON the amperage falls to 0.04 to 0.05 and what it manages to defrost is half, and bimetallic change as 6 the one I found is from L47-22f, install one of L45-22f , then remove it install the same capacity as it had and still the same also probe with l60-40f and L50 and nothing

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friovega63
friovega63
11.849
hace 6 años

Hi MultiTec, I just tried to explain how it works and how to make the measurements of the bimetal, in no case and said another thing, yes I warn you that the test with a glass with cold water, that is not correct, because the bimetal does not It is a simple switch, this element must be measured by operating on the equipment itself and I have already told you the correct way, because not only must the circuit open and close, but the time necessary for the resistance to do its part must also be activated. . A bimetal can close the circuit at 0 degrees Celsius, and it does not support 5 minutes activated later.

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friovega63
friovega63
11.849
hace 6 años

I don't know where he places the bimetal, in the evaporator coil of the equipment, because an L60 in LG, works perfectly, there are those who prefer the L50, but for me, he L60, obviously in good condition, allows to make a more perfect thaw, because it keeps to defrost resistance, a minimum of time greater than the L50. If you place the L60, on the upper left end of the evaporator coil, the bimetal receives less heat from the resistor and supports longer operating time. Change the scale of the ammeter to that of 20 amps, as a resistance of 0.92 ohm would be more than 1 amp.

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MultiTec Lanza
hace 6 años

thank you for answering friovega63 tomorrow I will do that test I tell you how it went

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friovega63
friovega63
11.849
hace 6 años

Thank you for the communication. S @ lu2 friovega63.

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friovega63
friovega63
11.849
hace 6 años

Hello, I'm glad for you, highlighting, that something was not doing well with the measurements and scale used in the multimeter, because yes the previous resistance had a reading, 0.92 ohm, obviously it should work, turning red as it says and should as I already told you in my comment, consume more than 1 amp. S @ lu2

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Fermin 007
Fermin 007
57.307
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
Measuring the resistance does not necessarily have to beep the multimeter, to connect it directly and hot, with that it is more than enough, in some resistors they place the resistance values, in the sheet that protects the glass, when it does the defrosting it does not thaw in full the coil, there is some frost in the evaporator, what you would have to check is that between the compressor doing the defrosting manually, if you already checked that part, you would have to check the thermostat, to make its necessary cuts and starts for Compressor breaks, many times we focus on the automatic defrosting and set aside the thermostat and most of the time, as the compressor does not rest until the defrosting of either 6.8, or 10 hours enough ice will be generated in the coil , which would not be able to thaw what you have to thaw by accumulating little by little to the point of saturating and blocking the air ducts. Check the thermostat very well, good luck and greetings
MultiTec Lanza
hace 6 años

thank you and tomorrow you open the place where I am checking I will check the thermostat I have not checked tomorrow I confirm

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MultiTec Lanza
hace 6 años
hace 6 años
it was the resistance, the old one did not turn red hot and the new one did and rises to 1.1 amps and the new one measures continuity thanks
Fermin 007
Fermin 007
57.307
hace 6 años

It’s good that you’ve already solved, if the resistance has to be red hot, it’s necessary to connect it directly, thanks for commenting on the solution, regards

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