



Thanks, could you expand a little more? How do they connect? how are they used? Any brand and model you can suggest? Thank you!!!
elektomaq first of all thanks a lot for the answers.
I always assumed that a possible solution could come from the side of understanding better what is inside the "bomb board".
I know little about electricity / electronics, I'm more of a hobbyist :) and some basic concepts can escape me.
For me the pump board is a "black box" that I give 220 and the pump starts, ha. I pass you some photos that I took some time ago for the connections, I think that the components need to be seen better, tell me if with this you intuit that it has or I will open it again and I will give you better photos ...
For me it has the starting and running capacitors on that pump board.
The circuit comes from the neutral, because even as I understand and suggests the manufacturer of the electron level, they recommend cutting the neutral in case there is any leakage with water or something. That is why the cutting key works on the neutral I understand.
As for the differential, everything hangs from a differential that is behind the thermal saying "Main board", but do not draw it.
Nastor !!! I re passed you !!!! ... This seems to be the solution that I ... I will see how I do to implement it, because the problem I have is that the general thermal is next to the selector key and the tank. And 40 meters away is the collector with valves, contactors, pump, etc. Both places are connected by 3 wires, and in the diagram that you passed me I need 4 wires (phase / neutral for differential voltage, and the 2 of 24v that goes to the bus and one to the contactor). The underground pipes are covered and not even a pin fits!
Questions?:
1- I saw that you eliminated the PSR-22 Relay / Contactor of start of the irrigation, this is because the functions of contactor and start remain in the contactors that you added true ?, for that reason I see that the common cable goes to the contactor. True?
2- The selector key no longer cuts the neutral, this is because now the control does it over a low voltage? (24v)?
3- Is there no way to set the tank filling solenoid valve as 1 more solenoid valve of the irrigation controller? Is there a way that the electron level triggers the ignition of the controller and pump indicates the specific area? It can?
Hi. The first question was answered by yourself, a contactor is a contactor no matter how much we give it a different name, how important it is that the coil manages the irrigation, that is 24 volts.
The second, when we talk about low voltage control voltage, it does not matter neutral or live, on the other hand, even in 220 volts, it is a minor issue from my point of view.
I return to the contactor, it happens that we need auxiliary contacts, so the change is not a whim.
As for your third query, I had to study it, but in principle it seems unlikely, since irrigation has its own timed program and does not respond to a level control, and if we add this as a condition (for example rain sensors ), the result is always a pump stop order.
We can see the next option, which is to study if an irrigation valve (timed by the program) can always fill the tank before irrigation, that is likely to be done and you would not need another contactor or auxiliaries, just one (or two) extra solenoid valve (of recirculation) that will act when the float sends "full". Interesting, your order may be feasible, but remember that everything will be timed, that is, it is a routine of filling and irrigation, filling and irrigation, ...
... I upload an estimate diagram
Nastor, this good as an experimental idea. But it seems to me that we are curling a lot in the tank problem :).
The tank is a tank of 1000 liters of water, irrigation is a program at night when everyone sleeps and another program at mid-morning, the probability that the tank needs pump water during irrigation, is really super super low! .... moreover, if by those coincidences the tank runs out of water, the pressurizing pump that draws water from the tank, has a control so that it does not suck empty and cuts alone.
Under these premises, can you think of a simpler circuit yet?