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Building

Make a new terrace of a very old house with leaks and humidity.

marcelop
marcelop
176
hace 5 años
hace 5 años
Hello, I need you to guide me, my old house has leaks from the terrace, my idea is to fix it once and for all. It is a very old house. The quickest and cheapest option would be to pass a liquid membrane to the terrace, the issue is that the duration is limited, so I am thinking of lifting the entire terrace, the issue is that I don't know what I am going to find. Please correct me what I am going to say next, unless you are saying a silly one: The flat roof of a new building has the following layers: Slab, polyethylene film as a vapor barrier, thermal insulation of expanded polystyrene, subfloor with slope, folder with water repellent (1: 3 ratio (one of three sand cement + ceresite), asphalt paint primer, asphalt membrane with the caulked joints, another asphalt paint hand or a liquid membrane hand, protection folder / seat, ceramic floor or tile. So far am I doing well or did I make a mistake? The issue is that I will find when breaking the terrace of an old building from the 40s or 50s ... as I realize how far to break, etc. Is it broken until asphalt paint is found? Once that point is reached, all the remains of asphalt paint are removed, I paint again, I place a membrane that turns around at the ends and gets into the wall (drool), a liquid membrane hand, a seat folder is remade by last, the ceramics are placed with double gluing method. Is all this correct? Greetings and thanks!
servimat1
servimat1
138.835
hace 5 años
hace 5 años
Hi. If the construction is old once you remove the compression layer of brick or vaults you will find dirt. Yes, common land. It is what was used as thermal insulator. Ideally, you should lift the entire layer, all the earth and reach the earthenware itself. There you will see the cracks and areas with humidity. Being an old surface you will not be able to repair cracks or landslides only with concrete. You must apply SIKA Dur 32 Gel and then the concrete. Apply after drying the repair two hands of asphalt paint. To give inclination towards the drains you can make an aggregate of telgopor in balls with sand, water-repellent and cement. This will give you thermo acoustic insulation and will be a waterproof layer. Finally and as a termination you can make a folder of about 4 cm minimum that will give the roof passability, mechanical hardness and termination. On this last layer give a minimum of 3 hands of fibrous or polyurethane paint and you will have years and years without filtration problems while respecting the setting times and using a good material. This finish layer should be 3 sand, one cement and water repellent. If the cloths are large (more than 4 x 4) you can dig into it expansion joints. regards https://arg.sika.com/dms/getdocument.get/843c455f-934c-3d51-b0ba-b3fbf6298f08/Sikadur-32%20Gel.pdf https://www.teknobayres.com.ar/tienda/sika-sika-1/
marcelop
marcelop
176
hace 5 años

Thank you very much for the detailed answer Servimat1,
I ask you:
1) After applying the bonding bridge (SIKA Dur 32 Gel) should I fill in with Grouting instead of common concrete? (since concrete usually retracts)
2) From what I understood, on the slab you recommend a subfloor with an insulating and water-repellent slope, on top of that a 4cm binder that again has water repellent and painted with fibrous paint on top, but at no time will you name the asphalt membrane.
Thanks greetings!

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servimat1
servimat1
138.835
hace 5 años

Grouting is a technique not a type of filling. As for asphalt paint, after I tell you which product to use, I mention applying two coats of paint.

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jn
jn
jn
481
hace 5 años
hace 5 años
Everyone has their system; mine is to reach the slab, repair possible cracks with special repair mortar Basf or any other brand; place 2 asphalt fabrics of 3 or 4mg / m2, each one, sbs quality, the first one without adhering on the ground but yes on the perimeters and the second one adhered to heat to the previous one (the asphalt fabrics, by themselves, already make the vapor barrier function)
jn
jn
jn
481
hace 5 años

Continuous.
Subsequently you put a 150gr / m2 geotextile and put the insulation on top, 2 extruded polystyrene plates are 5cm thick each nail; Then you make a layer of 5cm high-grade mortar giving slope to the sinks or drains and, over mortar to grab the tile you want to put or place. On the perimeters or vertical walls you have to raise the waterproofing. 20cm above the tile. Saint's hand.
Greetings. Juan

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jn
jn
jn
481
hace 5 años

Ah! Put a polyester or polypropylene geotextile on top of the insulation, 150gr / m2; Polypropylene is more durable and more expensive. For greater security, before placing the two fabrics, a 30cm reinforcement band between the vertical and the horizontal is recommended, sbs quality.
Cosult on the Danosa website in waterproofing solutions.

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