✅ Clac noise when changing drum rotation direction in LG wash cycle

Hello Friends of YoReparo, I have a 13kg LG wfsl1332et washing machine that in the wash cycle generates a loud “CLAC” sound just when the direction of drum rotation changes (The problem is only in the wash / rinse cycle. Centrifuge perfectly). I have inquired about the subject and some sites mention the clutch arm adjusting screw but as I see it looks good (it has the original paint / paste and does not seem to have moved). As I am a newbie, I don't know how to operate the washing machine without water, to see exactly where the sound comes from and thus provide more details. My question is has anyone seen in this same situation? Would they know how to solve it? I attached some pictures of the clutch arm screw (In its resting position when it is off)

Thank you in advance for your help. Regards.

Regards JonBenz. This washer model must have double white plastic gears that are either turned off or in the stages of washing and rinsing, the said gears must remain motionless thanks to the two teeth of the clutch arm. If there were to be a separation between both teeth of the clutch arm and the teeth of both gears, of course you will hear that sound that is when the pinions move from their place. In the stages of washing and rinsing, there is a small displacement of the brake arm that is pulled by the arm of the drain motor in order to release a very minimal thing the brake band so that the movement of the spin drum takes place in a manner opposite to the horizontal impeller or agitator. If this displacement is greater than expected, it will cause the teeth of the clutch arm to move away from the teeth of both gears enough to generate the problem. If for some reason the clutch arm was manipulated and modified, it would contribute to that failure. In addition to the adjustable screw on the clutch arm there is another device that can modify the arm of the drain motor and decalibrate its function. Check the area where the arm of the drain motor is attached since by means of a graduation this fault can be corrected. Verify that both teeth are present in the clutch arm as if they were the index finger and the big toe. If they are out of place or worn and even, if there is any wear on the teeth of the gears, therein lies the source that generates the noise. To work without water, disconnect the semi-transparent sleeve that is connected to the tube protruding from the plastic tub in the first instance. Then blow gently and steadily through the aforementioned sleeve to the electronic pressure switch until you observe that the main motor is activated and the solenoid valves stop sounding. Fold the sleeve without damaging it, to conserve the air inside it while observing how the clutch area works. Under no circumstances can you think of laying the washing machine or tilting it and putting it to work while the belt is between both pulleys, because you will cause damage to the plastic tub. You can lay the washing machine on the left side to better appreciate the area of the clutch and without the belt between both pulleys, observe how much separation exists between the teeth of the clutch arm with respect to the teeth of both gears. in the wash stage without water. Comment on it. Thanks and regards. Edited on 07-24-2018. 12 hours ago JonBenz Hi btvictor, I could not do the procedure to check the washing machine lying down (due to lack of time) but here I leave you a link with a video that records where you see any of the issues to review and appear to be correct (and well, the noise is heard "Clac"). If you can see it and comment on it, I would appreciate it. [/B] https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xc7RnPERzL0Lz1q9MGoDPIHqFg1cguxL Regards. Regards JonBenz. Thank you for the video you have uploaded to the Forum. It is appreciated that the sound is due to the blow that the brake arm executes when making contact with the lower end of the graduation screw in the clutch arm. That should not happen. It is likely that there is competition between the drain engine that holds its position at 50% of its rigid arm retracted and the device that is on your right hand brake arm and that being part of the drain engine, its spring wants to pull the engine drain arm This device consists of a pair of screws (one large and one small) which you can access to calibrate that tension and see if the noise disappears as such. The separation of the end of the adjustable screw in the clutch arm is about 3 to 4 mm from the surface of the brake arm when the washer is off or at rest. Once the wash or rinse stage takes a turn, the rigid arm of the drain motor is located 50% into the drain motor and remains there for the duration of the selected stage. Thing that really happens in your case. The smooth surface of the brake arm should make contact with the screw end of the clutch arm, but without pressing the clutch arm to prevent the clutch arm teeth from moving away from their place. This movement allows the brake band to separate from the transmission case housing by exaggerating the thickness of a sheet of paper. This separation contributes so that the spin drum can rotate both ways and in the opposite way thanks to the impeller that in the presence of water in the plastic tub, injects water jets into the internal columns of the spin drum while the 2-guide spring located inside both plastic gears, it is kept away from both the steel cylinder present there and the final part of the transmission case housing. The idea is that the surface of the brake arm makes contact with the end of the adjustable screw to ensure that separation equivalent to the thickness of a sheet of paper. If less, the brake band will seek to brake the spin drum. If you have a magnet, you can place it on top of the control panel and where it coincides with the magnet that the washing machine door brings, in order to keep the said door open and observe the spin behavior of the spin drum in the presence of water in the plastic tub (without water there is no spin). You can even remove both gears with their respective 2-guide spring and test the washing stage only with water at its low or medium level. You shouldn't hear the noise. In short, if by loosening the larger screw of the device that is on the right side of the end of the brake arm and graduating with the small screw that the smooth surface of the brake arm makes contact with the lower end of the adjustable screw of the brake arm Clutch, that annoyance should go away. You can even let the brake arm push a very minimal thing to the adjustable screw. This will allow the spinning drum to make displacements of 15 to 20 cm in one direction and then in the other instead of about 10 cm only in both directions. It would be necessary to try and comment on what you get with your spring. Removing both gears with its 2-guide spring will allow checking that the spring has its two guides instead of just one or that the upper guide is somewhat out of place. However, visually you can see if each guide is in place. At least the lower guide I could see and remains intact in place in the lower plastic gear. Thanks and regards. [b] Edited on 08-20-2018 51 minutes ago JonBenz Epale Bvíctor, after a wash load returned the fault that the drum does not spin in the wash stage :( can you think I could check to see? Regards JonBenz. My suggestion is to remove the belt between both pulleys. 1.-Remove the belt between both pulleys. 2.-Loosen the nut of the pulley of the transmission case by blocking the pulley with the help of two screwdrivers of splines or cross that through the metal protector in the form of "U" protects the pulley of that box. 3.-Remove the protector in the form of "U". 4.-Remove the nut, pulley and keep the gear near the box, turn the gear (which previously made contact with the pulley) counterclockwise and pull both gears with everything and its 2-guide spring. 5._ Take care to leave the steel cylinder in its original position. Remember that there is a very special washer between the final part of the transmission case housing and the steel cylinder that must remain there. 6.-Replace the pulley as well as its nut. 7.-Replace the belt between both pulleys. 8.-Program only the washing stage only with water at its medium level and see if the spin drum rotates in both directions. It is to be expected that this will happen without the presence of the 2-guide spring and neither the two gears. 9.-Repeat the test of the washing stage to confirm that the rotation is effectively maintained. He comments that the spinning drum rotates so much in one direction and then in the other. Thanks and regards.

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Clac noise when changing drum rotation direction in LG wash cycle

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