Regards Jose Luis Aparicio. Have you checked with a tester if a voltage signal arrives at the pair of wires that feed the drain pump? If the reading is between 110 VAC and 127 VAC and 60 Hz, the problem would then be in the drain pump itself that is damaged. With the same tester and in the continuity option, you can verify if there is continuity between its two terminals, with the electric pump disconnected from the two wires that supply it. If there is continuity between its two terminals, the electric pump is energizing and fails to operate, which is why it must be replaced. If there is no continuity between both terminals in the drain pump, the replacement of it is definitely mandatory. If there is no voltage to the pair of wires that feed the drain pump, you should check at the level of terminal T9 in the Timer if its internal contact of the corresponding stage has a soot presence. That is reason enough for the drain pump not to respond. The Timer must have two windows with metal sheets that are removable to see inside the same timer. By externally locating the T9 terminal, you can internally associate it with the corresponding stage. With extreme care and without deforming the stage, inquire if there is presence of soot in your contacts. With the help of a 400 grit metal sandpaper you can clean your contacts and try. The Lid Switch has nothing to do with the drain pump . If the wash, rinse and spin stages work, the Lid Switch is fine as well as the Lid Lock. Review and comment on it. Thanks and regards.