



If I disconnect the cable that comes from the part of the potentiometers that enters the pre-applicator, there is no noise, the speakers are silenced and it does not send any acoustic signal or "his" anything, another thing I noticed is that in the state of at rest, just by turning on the power, the transistors that are screwed to the heatsink get very hot, without active signal from outside, bone in standby mode, can the filters be "capacitors" ???? of the plate? can they be the transistors? send repair for now is not an option because I do not have that money, but not let it die
Greetings, friend Humberto, it may be, the filters are the fastest decay in a circuit, it must be fixed if the heat transfer gel that is in the power transistors is dry, if so, it must be replaced, when disconnecting the cable of the signal, it is proof then that the fault is in the mixing and equalization stage, it can be a defective integrated (operational), those integrated 8-pin, you can also test by entering a signal separately to the amplifier board that has volume control , so prove that the amplifier stage is fine.
Friends of the community and especially Alexis Navarro, TOTAL THANKS !!! I did not know where to start and could not pay for the arrangement, I decided to continue with intuition and heeding some of your advice Alexis, take apart the front where the equalizers and potentiometers are, the first thing I did was pass ALCOHOL ISOPROPILOCO, to the equalizer rails with ISOPOS, of those for the ear, I said well I will try, ovbiably pass the alcohol and then dry it with another isopo, I thought "well I will try" wualaaaa matter solved it already takes 1 hour the team with music and there are no more noises
Cordial greetings, friend Humberto, I am very happy that you have been able to solve your problem, you have to have the cunning as yours to solve problems like this, my person and other colleagues in the forum are always here for everyone's collaboration and to help The rest, with pleasure.
Thank you very much and hopefully this serves for similar cases, of minor causes but for something you have to start fiddling, always with the precautions and some knowledge, with the help of people like you. Again thanks to the forum and avos alexis a hug
Hi, thanks for the reply, but I can't publish photos or I won't be able to publish more photos since I'm new and I have limitations on the page,
one more fact, the "noise" is still produced with all the potentiometers at 0
If you can help me upload photos gratefully.
Greetings, friend in the box where you comment at the bottom comes a small pencil, clicks there and improves response, once so you can upload photos in the same way as you did before and you can upload them again, remember that the option is the little square that is at the top. regards
Good morning, greetings friend Humberto, that is the amplification card, as I mentioned before in a sensilla test you can clean that card both on the top and the bottom with electronic component cleaner by applying a generous layer on both sides and helping you with a brush, until you see that it is clean, then you let the weapons dry and try again to see what the results of the cleanliness are, if it is because of the dirt it will improve, if there is no need to continue detailing, comment if you do To continue in your support. regards
hello thanks for answering, I already did it and the noise continues and sometimes the volume is lowered and it goes back up, it makes type "explosions" in the speakers, and the strangest thing is that it continues making the noise even with the equipment without any input of active sound, and the master potentiometer at "0", thanks if you can think of anything else we follow, call a technician and want to assault me armed to repair this noise without even seeing it.
Greetings, it could also be to clean the master control then to see how it behaves, if it redoes the noise it can already be the pre amplifier with possible damages in an integrated, the other test that can make friend, is to remove the signal cable that arrives at the amplifier card, I think it is the white one that is next to the sink on the side where the gray is, with this the doubt is cleared if the damage is in the amplification card or the one of the pre, if it is identified as R and L In can be done, in the photo you can't see very well, if you dare to do this test you can
Discard more easily, to locate on which card the fault is, otherwise it is time to seek technical service that is more conscious and will not assault it as you say my friend, if you can identify this signal cable you can do the test and comment on how was your Outcome. regards