The water heater needs a minimum flow for the flowmeter to detect and turn it on. I think it is 4 liters per minute. I do not remember, but you can look at the manual, and then check on the faucets that you have problems to
See if they meet this condition. Some come with a restriction inside that causes less water flow, and can cause the heater not to turn on.
Also, why do you have a 1/2 reduction in water intake? Is not the 3/4 "the entrance of the water heater?
Hi. The pipe is all 3/4. But when it is derived to an artifact, it is reduced to 1/2 to just increase the pressure. I have the problem in the kitchen. And curiously, the monocommand of the bathroom turns on the water heater when the bathtub option is chosen, let's say but it does not turn on when switching to the shower.
Good. Try eliminating that reduction. You don't need it, and it hurts you. That should raise the flow somewhat in general. Maybe that is enough to turn on the water heater.
If that is not enough, check the faucets.
I had a heater of those (an S6) and I had to remove a restriction that had a kitchen monocommand to turn on.
Obviously we are taking it for granted that you have no obstruction in any part of the pipe, filter entering the water heater, etc.
Thank you all. At this time I can answer that the shower flower is 2 meters from the floor and the tank is 5 meters from the floor.
The shower faucet is this:
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-614673440-griferia-ducha-piazza-village-cruz-exterior-embutir-embutida-_JM
The strange thing is that the water heater works by opening the one that fills the bathtub and not in the shower.
I do not understand you, the important thing is that the flower of the shower to the base of the tank must have a minimum of 2.50 meters, not from the floor but from the flower of the shower
Turn on the water heater with the shower head because it is down, here what commands the flower of the shower, do not be guided by another tap, just, I repeat from the shower flower to the base of the tank there must be at least 2,50mts
My brother-in-law arrived and told me "change the flexible ones. The meshes have a fine pitch compared to the flexible copper classics. I went to easy, they shaved the ogt but at first glance I verified that I was right. Change the one that comes out of the hot water heater and the kitchen bacha began to work. Replace the entrance to the tank heater and the hot water tank of the vanitory. Now turn on but not always.
Do not solve 100x100 but it seems a good fact for others. I have to change the lowering of the tank, make it 1 1/2 and reduce in the heater. Raising the tank is not viable.
I am from the old plumbing school, and if I had to install a zero water heater I do it with double joints, but today it goes easily, the flexible meshes are not used to connect a water heater since the internal sleeve is rubber, with the heat that radiates the artifact they are made ball immediately; you can put flexible 3/4 "copper and a reduction bushing in the connection