Hello my friend, the hot water tank was fucked
Electric is a 80 liter ransen does not have the model.
Test continuity in resistance is fine. I tried if it reaches 220 volt it arrives well
Aora I don't know what this component is called is where the 220 volt goes from where I took the two terminals in the photo you see a little black button I pressed it I don't know if to try 
Under the device there is a diagram, you can take a picture and. Showing that we can tell you what it is.
The resistance was tested and gives continuity and 220v arrive and it does not heat is a short in the resistance
Hello
Jorgedeclaypole1 to the resistance does not reach 220volt. that photo apparatus arrives 220vol
but it doesn't happen to the other side
Ok on the reset, I was struck that you reported that there were 220 v in the terminals of the resustence, that's why I entered the doubt and asked for the diagram, which was just below the photo of the device
if it was hard for me to explain haha on me when I disassembled it, so I don't have to take out the resistance hahahahahaha I thought that everything was coming together junttojorgedeclaypole1
If it turned on, you don't need to change it. It is its normal way of working. When it stops heating you press it again and voila. It is a safety measure against over temperatures. If you do it very regularly, it means that it is mechanically failed and in that case you should replace it. It is a thermostat. To change it you must carry the original model. Regards
I tried it outside I took out all tubiera to test with water so I don't need to buy one
hello servimat1 ago another question I skip the thermal return I might skip what I measured with the tester the outlet and avia 228volt
when you have to find out 220volt that may be the problem
No, the voltage does not make the thermal jump but the current. When they exceed their In or admissible current (in general lines) it is when they disconnect. What should be seen is the consumption in the thermal to see if it is well calculated. For this you would need an amperometric clamp. Do you have one or someone who can lend it to you?
I don't have that caliper I don't have servimat1 I know that because the thermos is in my sister's house and has a therma before reaching the tap of the hot water tank
layers that is the fault
How much is the thermal that jumps? Which section are the cables? Are there other charges sharing this same thermal or circuit? It is important to know this to verify if you jump overload. If it is very close to its current limit, it may jump sporadically. This does not mean that there is a fault, on the contrary the thermal is doing its job but very to the limit.
servimat1 layers that misplaces the thermal that jumps is the little black button that is in the photo
I told him to put it to a minimum and it works
I also cleaned the resistance that was full of tartar
