It is relatively new because it has 6 months of use and it worked perfectly, it is set correctly and there's also a pressurizing pump under the water heater because the tank was too low and there wasn't enough water pressure.The problem is that the water heater turns on when i open some tap but with little flame, and it doesn't get to heat the water.. i ruled out that it was a problem of rapid passage of water through the water heater and for that reason it doesn't get to heat because it worked perfectly before, also, the pump was disconnected, to check that it works alright, and the water comes out perfectly, so the problem is directly in the heater, because disconnecting the outlet pipe (that was to rule out some obstruction in the pipe, which is unlikely because it was installed recently), the water comes out with low presssure and cold.We don't have any idea what can it be, the diaphragm? i read something about it, i also tried to see if there was some clogged filter in the light blue thread that leads to the water of the heater, but i did not found no filter in there, i don't know if for that i have to disassemble because i understand it should have a conical filter.i hope you can give me some guidelines to keep ruling things out.

Try to change the spring that is outside the diaphragm, for a softer one

Hello POLLO2006, i would tell you that as first measure, disassemble and clean the venturi (the light blue piece), disconnect the flexible and take it out by removing the lock on the top. And also pay attention to the little pipes that need to be clean, and the water chamber as well.And as an advice, i see you have an epoxy elbow in the pump outlet... very bad, that rust that forms can be the problem, change everything to polypropylene, or acqua system or bronze, but no iron. Good luck and greetings!

hi, as i tell you colleague, check that the venturi does not have any trash, but the most important thing is a little tube that fits under pressure from the side where the lock that joins it to the serpentine is, the water pressure may have taken it out of place and part stops making the venturi effect so the diaphragm can't work

Hi semavi, i agree with elindio's suggestion that you have to change the yellow epoxy elbow, but it seems to me that the feeding of the pump is of iron as well, you can't see it so clear because it is painted with the same paint from the wall, but you can see that it is threaded, looks like galvanized or epoxy, it can be bronze, it's right.About the heater, disassemble the input flexible, (previously cclosing the stopcock) set a bucket, open the stopcock, and see how the pressure comes out and the water flow with the pump working, this is the first thing to do in order to know the quantity and pressure of water we are counting with, if the pressure's good, we continue with the venturi part, diaphragm, little tubes, filter, etc. If it's wrong, we'll check the pipes and pump,If everything's alright, we'll take out the diaphragm chamber and push manually the gas opening bolt that feeds the lighter, with the water running, that way we will see the amount of flame you have in the lighter, if the flame is good there is something that doesn't allow the diaphragm chamber bolt to push the gas alright, causing this damage, finally checke that the serpentine is not partially clogged.Change the diaphragm rubber, no exception, good luck and at your service for any new consultation.

Hi aribenjo, look that this is a volcano with rotary valve, if our friend disconnects the water chamber, gas is going to come out (unless the valve is in pilot position), because this kind of valve is not bolted (locking rod); is the one that has the water chamber with spring and rubber seal, and it works opposite of the heaters with keypad. That's why he should make sure that the problem isn't the venturi and as a last resource, change the water chamber. This kind of water chamber can suffer a premature wear due to the water hammer of the loose valve stopcocks, in addition to the pressurizing pump. This water heater should have a spherical stopcock and the ideal would be that the house have taps with ceramic closure or if they work with loose valve, weld them to the stem. All this process can also be solved by setting a retention valve to avoid the hit of the ram.I have already seen a few of your comments and i can tell you understand the subject very well, so i suppose you missed the detail of the rotary valve, and i clarify it so the owner of the water heater don't mess up!.Greetings!

pffffffffffffffffff hahahahaha maybe he already has a new water heater!!! :D

hi indio, thanks for the comment, the correction doesn't bother me at all, on the contrary, i don't need to say that the water heater is brand Orbis, i thought about it as it was one of them, thanks for the commentary. Good luck.

Let me tell you that the water heater keeps holding on.. what happens is that the pressurizing pump generally obstructs it and we found the solution clearing it from time to time (twice a year).. in the moment that serpentine doesn't hold on anymore because of the acid it'll be a matter of changing it and done.. thank you all!

I had the same problem and before every bath i had to open another tap, i closed it and from that moment it heated.After reading here, called Volcan and received as answer the well known solutions and the suggestion of checking the flow. So i took off the shower head (some call it the plate or the flower) of the best known brand and the heater turned on.The problem was that the faucet system and the little holes of the head were lowering the water pressure.I bought another metal shower and luckily it worked alright. But, given that the flame with one tap heated more than the shower, i did more holes in the head of the shower with a 1,5 and 2 mm wick and i raised the flame so it will balance with the tap.