WASHER: Jumps differential at 9/10 minutes after starting a wash.
If I close the water inlet, the washing machine directly stops, does not start the program (or starts it, but when there is no water it seems to be stopped) it also reads what I replied to the lusangor companion, I have already found a cable that when disconnected problem ceases, I just have to see where it leads. (Thanks for the idea, it also occurred to me but what I said happened, the washing machine simply does not start the program by not detecting water flow, it keeps making a buzz)
I tell you, I have detected the problematic cable, now it is disconnected from the electronic board, this cable is gray and goes towards the bottom, most likely it is either the door switch or the resistance (although it is I made some check with the tester and in principle I did well, or maybe I did it wrong) The pressure switch is discarded, the network input, the solenoid valves, and I would dare to say that the engine and the drain pump, since with the cable gray that I told you unplugged I tried to make a drain first, which implies the drain pump ...
Right now, with the problematic gray cable off, I am doing a trouble-free wash, exceeding 10 minutes of operation without interruptions (as I said, on the first attempt I did not jump the differential instantly, but it took between 9 and 10 minutes , if you wanted to reconnect the network with the washing machine plugged in from then on, it would jump instantly) When I finish the washing I will tell you the results, the washing is one of 60 degrees, it implies all the components except the one that is damaged (because it is disabled) so I think, it has to be the door switch.
Washings can be done, but the first phase remains infinitely so that you have to manually switch to the following phases that are, rinsed, centrifuged and emptied, or rinsed emptied and centrifuged (if you know what order they usually do you could tell me ? Thank you) Now it is in clarified I have put it manually because it had already been 2 hours in the first phase, it remains to be seen that the rinse has an end. The component to which that cable corresponds could also something to do with the water level, a humidity sensor or something, you will say.
The problematic cable connects to one side of the resistor, the other cable (from the other end) being connected does not jump the differential ... how do you explain that? Now if I have been plaid, the worst thing is that if it is the resistance I do not know how I am going to take it out, because it does not come down, if not towards the rear panel of the washing machine, and with the space there is I do not think that Everything goes out ... I still try to take it out as I can, check it, remove it and / or clean it and put it back on, in case it makes any weird contact.
It is probably a problem with the resistance, if you connect that cable, it should jump, if it jumps, you have to replace it to perform the washing correctly. To replace it, you have to loosen the screw that is in the center of the resistance, not entirely , push that screw in to loosen the rubber in the interior and then you pull the resistance out.
I have several doubts about this, first and essential, in this washing machine the resistance is fitted horizontally, and in a part where, although I remove the back cover, I don't think I have space to take out all the resistance, in the event that it does not have any fold to extract it better, how should I take it out? because when I get it off it will stay halfway and it will collide with the chassis ... second, if I don't find a 100% compatible resistor, which indicates that it is for my model, I could install a similar one even if the model of my washer is not compatible, still looking like? Thx
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