fuse replacement (any microwave)
uff I think you could have added this better to locate the fault technically and not put something that has nothing to do with the original design as technicians the important thing is to repair using a practical way to solve any inconvenience in this case a microwave until your integrity is at risk physical if you do something inappropriate
Hello, a lamp is better since the thermal would not make the fuse not break because for that it would have to be of less current than the apparatus that feeds and that way it would always jump.
Microwaves are very risky equipment because in their power stage they handle a voltage of up to 2500 Volts so they are considered more dangerous than a TV, disconnected from the mains produce a very strong discharge if the Capacitor has not been previously discharged. Fuse is almost always in this Stage: Transformer, High Voltage Diode and Magnetron, less the Capacitor that does not blow the Fuse.
Arturi says in the post that years ago ... then learning how to solve is very slow on the subject
Technologist 1, I'm a hobbyist. I disarm everything within my reach because I take it as a challenge. I always keep the relevant safety regulations. In the case of the microwave it is essential to discharge the capacitor because its discharge resistance takes a while to do so and it could also be cut. otherwise, it is not a science to travel the circuit and test the fundamental elements that make it work because they are few and easy to detect the problem. I did the lamp thing every time a fuse problem arose, I just wanted to see if my original idea
I have Got Short Capacitors and the Fuse has not damaged me, this is because the Capacitor itself does not go to Earth, simply by Testing it with a Needle Multimeter it Flexes said Needle towards a certain value and does not Return that is very common in the TVs that the Main Capacitor of the Source when doing this Test goes short, however many TVs turn on with that Element as well, others that do not, that depends on the Model
The Door Switch does not damage Fuses, it only closes a Contact that brings Voltage to the Transformer from the low side and this Energizes the High Voltage Group, Capacitor, Diode and Magnetron. The two Cables that are connected to it only reach one Line and to produce a Short, the 2 Lines must arrive, so the Connector that is closer to the Housing has a Plastic Insulator to prevent any contact with it.
arturi65, to dispel any doubt you may have with the Microswitche of the Door, you just have to put a filament of Fine Copper Wire, of the Thickness of a Hair where the Fuse goes, disconnect 1 of the Transformer Low terminals that leaves the Microswitche, Connect the Microndas and do a simulation of Equipment Operation, Programs and you start it by the Start must turn the Dish with Internal Light On, the filament is not going to melt, because the High Power Stage is not connected Tension.
No, technologist1, the Microswitch acts as a Damper, only when closing the Door it makes Contact because the pressure of the Door pushes the Button like a Pushbutton and this closes its Internal Contacts, the short one is produced Downstream and comes from the Transformer Group -Diodo-Magnetron, the only way to get a short one there is for one of its Plugs to touch the Equipment Housing, so the nearest one has a Plastic Cover.
AL SR Arturi I recommend watching some videos on the internet are very good and give different data that will make your practice more enjoyable because it will give you more tools in the experience
Well, the tester is for you to look for the problem and the solutions and not to blow fuses or raise thermal because you are not sure that you have done your job well, for those things a thermal is not viable, if you do your review and solve the short that you can have the microwave replacing what has been damaged you can reconnect your device with everything and fuse and it does not have to burst if you did your job well, that simple ...
Explain to me technically why the fuse could not be replaced by a thermomagnetic key. I am speaking from its factory configuration, that is, the diagram devised with a key and not with a fuse. If you can answer that TECHNICALLY and not economically, I will consider your response as that of someone who has knowledge.
Look friend don't think I'm going to waste my time technically explaining something to a person who doesn't understand or speaking in the simple way, several of us here have told you why and you're still stubborn without understanding, because you don't ask the microwave maker why not puts a thermomagnetic instead of a fuse? Do you know why you did not do it ?, and why other manufacturers do not do it on their equipment instead of putting fuses? Do you know the difference between a fuse and a thermomagnetic? That's where those wise words come that say: The one who argues with a stubborn is wasting his time.
Mr. Jose Ortiz. He is not arguing. The manufacturer's answer is simple: Economical. As for the difference between a fuse and a thermomagnetic one, you should know (I suppose) that both are designed to allow a maximum of current intensity and then cut. With a small difference the fuse remains unused and the key can still be used. In fact, if you have. Some years, you will know that the fuses were used in family homes and then they were replaced by the keys because of their practicality and to prevent unscrupulous electricians (continue below)
I go back and repeat, who argues with a stubborn? Do not pretend that you are your teacher or teach him something that you should investigate before coming to discuss in this forum, I do not have to show you anything, rather I would recommend that you be better instructed between the differences between one thing and the other, not it is only "allow a maximum of current" and that "one is unused and the other is not", as many years as have not served much ...
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