Greetings. I have a Remington Shimmer hair dryer that doesn't turn on. It has a device similar to phone chargers, which has a red button that says reset and a yellow one that says test. I would like to know what this device works and how it works, since it seems to be the problem. Thank you very much in advance and Blessings to all.

Greetings Fermin007, I hope you are well greetings from Venezuela. I turn to your opinion because I know that you are an expert in the field and have treated several problems with this type of refrigerators and I comment that my refrigerator is a GE turboplus cooling system model TBX74YB01 which presents the fault that is filled the evaporator frost and ice accumulates and the defrost resistance is not activated. Previously the refrigerator had failed due to an inflated capacitor on the fan source card which was changed and the ignition potentiometer that was damaged and also changed and the refrigerator started working perfectly. When I had the faults of the capacitor and the potentiometer, the defrosting worked without any problem, but it did not lower cold air to the food storage compartment When I talk about ice accumulating, it does not reach the point of covering the ducts where the freezer cold air should go down, it is only that the food in the refrigerated compartment does not reach a cold air capable of conserving them in time ... I would like to know why this is due. The defrost resistance is not turning on and I already tried the bimetallic that is good (close contact when I put it in a glass with a lot of ice), I also tested the thermal sensors that go in the evaporator and in the fresh food compartment and are Good (vary their resistance when they feel cold temperature, all this with a multimeter). I proceeded to remove the defrost resistance with their respective fuses and connect it directly to the 120 VAC current and it works without major problem and I mounted it again in the fridge . The next thing I did was remove the bimetallic and bridge the cables that connect to it, then plug the fridge with everything but the bimetallic and I made the bridge that explain between 5V and GND (bypass only 1 second and bypass) to stop the motor and see if the defrost resistance is switched on, also pay attention to the sound of the relays but here in this test it is only heard when the motor relay is deactivated and it is NOT heard that the defrost resistance relay is activated which effectively it also did not start when the engine stopped and after 10 - 12 seconds the engine starts again. With the fridge on I measured the voltage on the large relay (motor) coil and it has 12V as it should be, then When the engine is turned off and I measure the small relay, at no time does 12V reach the contact coil. Take out the small relay and test it with a 12V source and it works seemingly well because the change of state of the relay is heard and I also measured continuity in the terminals where the suiche must change and it is fine. I proceeded to mount it again on the card. (See figure 1) In the yellow zone, what is the consequence of making a bridge that simulates the function of the small relay when the motor is turned off when bridging the pin 5VDC and GND? It is advisable? I went a little further and followed the lines of the components that are involved with the activation of the relays and arrived at the 2 output pins of the microcontroller, then I measured voltage in the testpoint that was left to the card at those pins (with the refrigerator on): 1. At the output of the microcontroller that activates the large relay (that of the motor) I measured 5V when the motor is on and 0V at the output of the microcontroller that activates the small relay (of the defrost resistance) because obviously not must still be activated 2. Then when the motor is turned off I measure the output of the large relay and there is indeed 0V (because it is off) but there is also 0V always at the output of the other relay that this case should have 5V to activate the circuit that sends the “zero or ground ”To the other pin of the small relay coil. (See figure 2) At this point I don't know for sure what is happening, is it possible that the card needs some other signal besides detecting when the engine is off to send the small relay to activate? Because it is clear in the circuit that when the large relay changes state it lets the 120V current pass to the small relay, but the latter is not energizing the 12V coil and is not letting the current go to the cable that goes to the defrost resistance. What is the possibility of doing a factory reset on the card with the TCP pins? Thank you very much for your contributions and comments ...