Hello Friend. You have already changed the filter of the 180volt of the video and you have solved all the cold solders that are on the plate and how much the + b measures
Hi friend Karval. I have not changed the 180volt filter, but I have measured it with a capacimeter. and I have already solved the plaque. The + b already measured it and it's fine. I'm going to change the filter you say for added security. Thanks for the info, regards.
Hi friend Nicomena. The tests I did if I have 175 volt in the socket of the tube and are present in the tda 6107jf. 1.9vol of the integrated RGB inputs are also present. Analyzing this integrated, I believe that if all three inputs have the same or approximately equal voltage, then it should have the same voltages at the cathodes of the tube. What do you think of that? The eeprom has 5 volts of power, only that the slc and sda pins are unstable voltages. The other components that you say I will review and tell you. Thanks for the help, regards
Hello; the voltage q, you have on pins 1-2-3- of the tda6107Q ... they are very low ... you have to measure if the supply voltage reaches the microscope lc201s ... pin54-56-61- = 3.3v ..pin14-39- = 8v ... measure q, voltage you have on pin49 ... deverian haver (approx) 4v ... measure q, voltage you have on pins51-52-53- RGB output to pins 1 -2-3- del (lc tda6107Q) ... apparently lc201s doesn't work for you ...
check the x201 glass of (12mhz) if it is working ... you can also have the damaged eeprom ... comment ..
Hi friend Nicomena. sorry for the delay. I was repairing a pc monitor while thinking about the tv. Tomorrow I measure the tensions as you say. I have a diagram, but it does not reflect the voltages in the circuits. I find that data to clear doubts. With respect to the eeprom, I have a blank of 24c04, apparently the Samsung TVs copy the data of the eeprom through the micro. I don't know if you have to follow some steps to record it. remember that I do not have an OSD and could not enter the service menu.
try that blank ... turn on and wait a few seconds and see if the micro loads the data in the eeprom ... see if OSD appears on the screen ... if the micro does not work so you should load the eeprom with the data to that model and chassis ... and try again ... do not forget the x201 glass and see if it oscillates ... the outputs of the RGB pins 51-52-53- should be (approx) at about 2.5v .. .okay..
Hello friends. Regarding this fault, reading a little about others who have had the same problem, I decided to disconnect the blue cathode. (KB) and the continuous display illuminated in blue with delay lines. When doing this test you should stop emitting the screen blue. It means that it is short and the screen is the problem. I wait for suggestions. Thank you
If you have a blue screen with delay lines it can be a tube problem ... since, you say that, you disconnected it from lc tda6107 and it continues in blue and with delay lines ... blue cathode may be short with the filaments. .. the only thing you have left is to make three turns of the insulated cable in the fli-bak core and to detach the two legs that correspond to the heater ... it has to be totally insulated from the tracks, they are welded ... ok .. and those two legs weld the two wires q, leave the three turns q, made the core ... weld again the blue cathode to the tda and see if there is no blue background
Good morning friend NicomenA. According to the analysis, the blue cathode is short, but with the tester I have not been able to verify that it measures with some of the heather or filament pins. I have to isolate the filament as you say and try. Is it correct that you do not detect with the tester that is short with some of the filaments?
if it can be detected ... but it is half complicated since, an external source is needed to heat the filament and a separate socket ... so as not to go beyond tension you can put in series with one of the tips of the three turns to the nucleus of the fli-bak an R of 2.2ohm ... and see what tone the filament has ... it shows when it is past tension because the color of the filament becomes bright ... look how the filament tone is with the tension original and compare with the external voltage ... it should be a little brighter..ok..comment results
Greetings to all the friends of this forum. I tell you that I already solved the problem of this tv. The fault arose because the blue kinescope of the kinescope was short. The solution was to isolate the feed with the filament, taking it from the core of the flyback with an insulated cable and separating the earth that connects to the filament. Thanks to those who collaborated giving suggestions and opinions that helped me a lot. Thank you companion Nicomena for your constancy.